I recently visited Sicarico, the charming village in the heart of Puglia, to collect the olive oil that was pressed earlier in November. Since I started this small olive oil business, every year has brought its own challenges and lessons. This year, however, was different: the drought hit production hard, with a drop of no less than 40% in the amount of oil we could extract. This affected not only us but all the small producers in the region, making high-quality olive oil an increasingly rare commodity.
The challenges of a dry year
This year's drought was more than an agricultural problem; it was a test of resilience for every olive oil producer. For me, this drop in production also means a smaller budget for our olive tree adoption project — a project close to my heart that supports biodiversity and protects Puglia's centuries-old olive trees. This year's limited budget is forcing me to rethink my strategy. But I won't let the situation discourage me. I am determined to increase my personal contribution to the project, and I hope that friends who have supported it in the past will once again adopt an olive tree. Even one adopted tree makes a real difference. Each tree is more than a symbol of tradition — it is a promise to protect this natural heritage for future generations.
The community of small producers
During my visit to Sicarico I ate at a much-loved local restaurant — a place full of authenticity and character, run by Angelo. He is a remarkable man who wears many hats: restaurateur, cook, manager and, of course, olive oil producer. Angelo is a living example of the dedication and passion that characterise Puglia's small producers. Yet even he did not escape this year's challenges. His production was considerably lower, and the shortage of high-quality olive oil forced him to use a commercial brand, well known throughout Italy, in his restaurant. It was surprising to see, but it was also a painful reminder of the difficulties small producers face as a result of climate change and a globalised market.
The importance of high-quality olive oil
Olive oil from Puglia is more than a food product; it is an experience, a connection with traditions and the land. Making it goes far beyond simply harvesting and pressing olives — it is an art handed down from generation to generation. Every bottle of olive oil tells the story of a year of hard work, dedication and, in some cases, sacrifice.
Sadly, this culinary heritage is becoming increasingly rare. Water shortages, pests and rising production costs are forcing many small producers to stop or to make compromises in order to survive. This is a huge loss, not only for the economy but also for the cultural and gastronomic heritage of the region.
Resilience through solidarity and hard work
Although the situation is difficult, my optimism remains unshaken. I strongly believe in the commitment and perseverance of the people of Puglia, who know how to turn challenges into opportunities. I have seen it countless times — their sense of community and their dedication to tradition are remarkable. That is why the centuries-old olive trees of this region will endure and continue to provide exceptional olives and quality oils for future generations too.
Another way to support local production is to inform friends and customers about the value of high-quality olive oil. Instead of always looking for the lowest price, we can invest in products that reflect hard work and tradition. In this respect, the olive tree adoption project is more than a way to support small producers — it is also a personal commitment to preserving nature and tradition.
Hope for the future
As we prepare for a new year, I look back on the lessons of 2024. It was a year full of challenges, but also full of moments that inspired me to keep going. My visits to Sicarico and conversations with people like Angelo reminded me how important solidarity is in times of hardship.
Next year I will continue to support the olive tree adoption project and to promote high-quality olive oil. I hope more people will join this initiative — by adopting an olive tree or by making conscious choices about the products they consume. Together we can make a difference and help preserve a tradition that deserves to last for centuries.
In the end, the olive trees of Puglia are not just trees — they are witnesses to history, symbols of perseverance and promises of a better future. For those privileged enough to work with them, they are both a responsibility and an honour. Despite all the difficulties, we will keep cherishing this land and sharing its beauty with the world.
Frequently asked questions
How does drought affect the quality of olive oil, not just the quantity?
Drought has a complex effect on the quality of olive oil. On the one hand, olives in dry years can contain a higher concentration of polyphenols, making the oil more intense and healthier. On the other hand, stressed trees can produce smaller fruit with little water that is harder to press and gives a lower oil yield. In addition, extreme heat increases the risk of the oil oxidising during pressing. As a result, a dry year can produce both exceptionally intense oil and more inconsistent quality — depending on how the producer deals with it.
What do small producers do to survive poor harvest years?
Small producers use various strategies: some raise their prices to compensate for the lower volume, others look for extra income through direct sales, farmers' markets or tourism. Some temporarily team up with other producers so they can still bottle enough oil. Adoption projects such as Uliveto di Mede's offer an alternative funding model in which consumers contribute directly to cultivation. In the worst case — as with Angelo — producers are forced to buy in commercial oil to keep their business running.
How is climate change changing the olive oil sector in Puglia?
In Puglia, climate change is bringing longer and more intense periods of drought, more extreme temperature swings and an increase in pests such as the olive fruit fly. This leads to more irregular harvests, higher production costs and a shift in the producer landscape: small family businesses are disappearing faster, while industrial producers adapt more easily. At the same time, awareness is growing: more and more consumers are deliberately choosing local, artisanal olive oil — essential support for producers like those in Sicarico.
0 comments